Janet Fletcher’s latest review for the San Francisco Chronicle. For my money, triple creams are the most decadent of cheeses. You can’t simply eat a little.
Put a triple-cream cheese on a tray with three or four other selections, and the triple cream will vanish first. Triple-cream cheeses seduce us with their richness and silkiness, even if they rarely have much more to offer.
Crémeux des Cîteaux, a French triple cream, meets my expectations for the style. Like Brillat-Savarin, essentially the same cheese in a bigger format, Crémeux des Cîteaux sports a pristine bloomy rind and a luscious, spreadable ivory interior that smells like clotted cream.