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Cheese Review: Quadrello di Bufala

Cheese: Quadrello di Bufala

Who: Caseficio Quattro Portoni

Where: Lombardy, Italy

Milk Type: water buffalo, pasteurized

Texture: semi-soft

Rind: washed & stinky

Shape: 5lb square
Flavor: rich butter, cave, nutty, mushrooms

Quadrello di Bufala is an Italian farmstead water buffalo cheese in a style akin to Taleggio. Made by the same Lombardy brothers in Bergamo, Caseficio Quattro Portoni, who create Casatica di Bufala, Quadrello is very earthy, a strong and alluring nose full of cave smells, mushrooms…  and a very nutty, salty, buttery , mouth-coating paste. The family dairy operation started with cattle in the 1960’s and has been working with buffalo the past few years, now making some two dozen water buffalo-based cheeses. Bordering on decadent, I’m not sure I’d ever eat Taleggio again if a water buffalo version were available.

Serve it with a well-aged, leathery Sangiovese, especially Brunello. In a dessert course, I’d wager that older Amarone or Port would be a flattering pairing.

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