John Kessler of the AJC has a nice write-up on the artisan cheese movement in the South.
Cheese maker Nathan Arnold — clad in knee-high yellow rubber boots, shorts, a cotton T-shirt and a white skullcap — hovers over a stainless steel tank the size of a kiddie pool. Here is where cheese happens. Inside this tank, heated raw milk will meet live cultures and rennet, causing the milk to sour and curdle in the most exquisite way.
There’s just one problem: The two dozen cows contentedly munching pasture grasses just outside the creamery building aren’t currently producing enough milk to actually make cheese. So the tank will remain empty for the next couple of months, while Arnold’s supply of his celebrated Alpine-style cheese dwindles. Demand has far outpaced supply this season, and he will soon have to break the news to loyal fans throughout the Southeast that Dancing Fern — his pungent and gloriously oozy washed-rind cheese — has sold out.