“Whether it is eaten on an airplane or at one of the most inventive restaurants in the world, the structure of the cheese plate has remained relatively inert — and austere. There are exceptions, yes. But at most places, you get a few slices and wedges of cheese. Then maybe a modest tangle of grapes, a mound of walnuts, some bread.
Which is why I was surprised the other night when I met two old friends for dinner at Colicchio & Sons in Chelsea. When the cheese plate arrived, I saw that it had gone all Dr. Seuss on me. There were shiny yellow orbs with bonsai stalks shooting out of them. There was a campfire treat floating on a wave of chocolate. There was a splash of mysterious crimson.”