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Mary savours the flavours as daily magic turns cheese-making into art form

“The cheeses mature in a huge, predictably smelly warehouse where up to 12,800 can sit – being turned daily for texture – for as long as two years. The whole process is marked by what Mary calls “attention and intention”. She adds: “You can do all of this with machines, but it is the handling and the personal involvement which makes such a difference. It’s still a daily magic to me, the most wonderful process, it’s like a living thing. Cheese-making is an art, but it’s also a science, and the team here take great pride in knowing each part inside out.” An impromptu cheese-tasting session at the Farm Shop illustrates the variety of Quickes’ produce. An elderly couple who have stopped by for a coffee during a walk and a pair of


Credit: This is Devon

honeymooning New Zealanders who all happen to be in the shop are also roped in by the unfailingly friendly and enthusiastic Mary, and together we work our way through the whole range. The oak-smoked cheddar – gently smoked on site using chips from the farm’s own trees – is completely different to the artificial processed type often sold in supermarkets, the flavour somehow deeper and more integral. The goat’s cheese goes down particularly well with our panel, who deem it “not too goaty” – and Mary says it is perfect for cooking because it goes fluffy rather than oily. Applying her tasting methods, I do find I’m aware of more going on in each mouthful than I’ve previously noticed.”

via Mary savours the flavours as daily magic turns cheese-making into art form | This is Devon.


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