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Cheese Shop chef wants to redefine sensible dining

Zach Boyden-Holmes/The Register

Zach Boyden-Holmes/The Register

“Here in the sensible Midwest, where conventional wisdom holds that the plain meat-and-potatoes dinner code comes close to religion, the dishes chef Nickolas Illingworth of The Cheese Shop of Des Moines puts out can be pretty risky.

The “French-style whipped cheesy potatoes with house-made pork sausage,” or the house macaroni and cheese are not hard sells — just the words on the page sound delicious. Illingworth’s genius lies in making food that doesn’t even occur to most of us and in showcasing that food’s essence. TCS customers, even the most “conventional,” suspend both disbelief and disdain for the unfamiliar to order (and enjoy) corned venison heart on toast, “face jam” or pork liver parfait, just a few of Illingworth’s boundary-pushing items.”

via TasteMakers: Cheese Shop chef wants to redefine sensible dining | The Des Moines Register | desmoinesregister.com.

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